Friday, April 17, 2009

Unconscious Cities



Me on the architecture of Red Riding for Building Design, overlapping a lot with the Fantastic Journal. I hadn't read the latter when I wrote it, but I think his description of John Dawson's house in particular is better than mine. I had also not realised that my mention of The Offence and Get Carter as 1974's forbears might have been subliminally influenced by an old k-punk post (itself inspired by this excellent piece of urbanist writing) which mentions them as the representations of the British city most akin to postpunk - it must have been unconscious, as I only saw The Offence for the first time a few months ago. Similarly, I hadn't realised until re-viewing The Parallax View a couple of days ago how much the portrayal of the Yorkshire post journalist, the exteriors, the architectural space, is indebted to Alan J Pakula's geometry of investigation and subterfuge. Regardless: what made 1974 so much more interesting to me than the rest of the trilogy was partly the Lynchian weirdness pinpointed by the FJ, but also the way in which all these Brutalist/70s paranoiac references suddenly make the British city brutal, fascinating and cruelly elegant, rather than just brutal in the man's-inhumanity-to-man sense. They approach it in the way that those of us who have grown up in these cities have always tried to see them, airbrushing out the aesthetically uninteresting - and then put that through an oneiric filter. They aren't mere replications, but a dream of Brutalism, with roughly the same relation to reality as a dream.



On similarly Yorkshire-related matters, am visiting Sheffield in two days, for my BD cities series. I'm increasingly aware that my idea of Sheffield, which is, via People's Republic of South Yorkshire/Cabaret Voltaire/Human League/early Warp/Pulp/Park Hill/New Brutalism, some sort of compendium of all that I hold dear, is going to bear very little relation to the reality. Sadly, I was never able to afford to visit it before they started demolishing everything. But if anyone has suggestions of things I should see when there, please please suggest away in the comments box below.

36 Comments:

Blogger Charles Holland said...

Sheffield is an interesting place. We are working there in an area called Parson's Cross which is a sort of arts and crafts garden suburb on the outskirts and quite shockingly run down.

The ex-pop music museum is a ghoulish shadow of its former self and therefore interesting - it's also opposite the station so pretty hard to miss (assuming you arrive by train and not in BD's minibus) and Hillsborough stadium is a great structure and features some good cantilevers for you.

I've wandered around the city centre trying to find the spirit of Pulp's Sheffield Sex City (Ooh er), early Warp and Sound of the Crowd era League myself but to little avail I have to say!

Look forward to reading it though...

12:11 pm  
Blogger Charles Holland said...

BTW I just read your piece and the overlaps are quite bizarre! Seems we picked up on the same places.

12:15 pm  
Blogger it said...

I hadn't realised until re-viewing The Parallax View a couple of days ago how much the portrayal of the Yorkshire post journalist, the exteriors, the architectural space, is indebted to Alan J Pakula's geometry of investigation and subterfuge.HMPH!

12:22 pm  
Blogger owen hatherley said...

(all readers, insert a 'Nina observed that' in that paragraph!)

12:52 pm  
Blogger owen hatherley said...

Also, I'm going to find out if BD do have a minibus. Thanks for the dilapidated garden suburb recommendation - will look out for it.

2:32 pm  
Anonymous Tom said...

Sheffield is a beautiful city. But you'll have to dig a little deeper. Scratch beneath the surface. Have a look at this: www.dontgo.co.uk/fanzine.php, a fanzine by me and a friend who incidentally you have linked on this blog (Go East Young Man). It's all there for your perusal. Tom

2:45 pm  
Blogger musicinpieces said...

I recently had the same experience of going Sheffield for the first time and seeing how the place tallied with the musical Sheffield of my mind (they didn't have much in common), and my friend who moved there actually gave me a full-on tour of places of musical interest, including the Wicker and the building society that used to be the Crazy Daisy - the place where Phil Oakey asked the girls if they wanted to be in his band, apparently. Capped off with a viewing of the 'Made In Sheffield' documentary. Can also highly recommend sampling a pint of Pale Rider.

3:41 pm  
Blogger owen hatherley said...

Cheers, both. That zine is especially very nice.

3:46 pm  
Anonymous Tom said...

I can post you some if you like? We also did a fanzine specifically about Park Hill and Modernism called 'Flat' - the name of the original Park Hill newsletter. Email me if you'd like me to send you some - mrtomkeeley@gmail.com . Tom

4:58 pm  
Anonymous Christian Ducker said...

You might be interested in The rather melancoly former NUM headquaters in the town centre. The construction coincided with the miners strike so the building was never finished or properly occupied. The revolving entrance door hovers in space as the steps up to it were never built.The site hoardings were up for years although the council has tidied around the edges. The plan is susposed to be in the shape of a miners pick. It actualy not too bad a building in a late seventies bronze tinted glass sort of way. There are a few manneristic details that I always think give it a very slight James Stirling red period feel. I think it was due to be demolished to be replaced with the usual dreadfull residential scheme.

7:59 pm  
Blogger owen hatherley said...

Thanks. I read on some BBC thing online that it was due to be demolished and was worried it already had been - but seems not. Is it this place? It isn't in the new Pevsner guide, so I'm hoping I have the right building.

8:11 pm  
Blogger Adam said...

Have a look around Attercliffe and Kelham Island for where beaten down old industry has been thrown into relief by eerie looking brothels and expensive water-side apartments, respectively.

Also it's worth looking at the insatiable University of Sheffield campus. The massive anti-library Information Commons full of empty bookshelves. And the even newer, and possibly even more garish, Jessop West thing opposite. Nicely situated next to the Henderson's Relish factory.

8:15 pm  
Blogger owen hatherley said...

Cheers - these are all very helpful, I never got any response at all when I asked the same thing about Nottingham. This is obviously in Sheffield's favour...

8:21 pm  
Anonymous Lang Rabbie said...

BDP's new very bright red brick HQ for the South Yorkshire fire brigade in Eyre Street is better than I thought it would be, given that it was funded by the developers of the "New Retail Quarter".

If it hasn't been demolished already, its twenty five year old predecessor in Wellington Street is a rare example of Hillingdon Civic Centre vernacular appearing in an urban habitat. I like it despite/because it is now so unfashionable.

BTW There is something worryingly Unheimliche in Littlepixel's juxtaposition of images from two such distinct genres from my half-forgotten youth.

12:43 am  
Anonymous simon said...

parallel to shefield, parallel to the stark geometry mentioned here...The personal investment in the city is something which really altered for me whilst living in Glasgow. A feeling of being enveloped within a mighty book such as Alisdair Grey’s Lanark offered a serious reorientation for my life there. Grey’s book highlighted for me the social, architectural ruins of the city simply by highlighting the absence of the fictional content of the book in the present day experience of living in Glasgow. Weirdly it was Greys book that drew my attention away from the a particular notion of ‘modern’ life – flat surface spatial dereliction – and drew me inside the shabby opulence of ornamental or classical architecture (which strangely Robert Owen’ socialist maquette ‘New Lanark’ was devoid of…I know – that’s something else). A book which contains particularly murky interiors (in the dual sense of the term) and sparsely populated eroticism, Lanark, acted in one way as a guide to a city which both underwrote the actuality of Glasgow by exhuming past lives, loves, interiors from the fictional literary future in which they were set. I still don’t quite understand the emotional impact this continues to have upon me – but somehow it’s still there…as though Grey’s fictional future was felt by me as the ground in which the work was already buried – somehow the act of reading it not only offered protection from its future but transformed Glasgow’s day to day experience into decorative ruin of his vision. (Apologies- to write it is a little more tricky than thinking it l.o.l).
Strangely – now living in Brussels – a similar version of this phantasmatic experience would occur through the soundtracks created (mostly on the Brussels based record label Disque du Crepuscule) by Stephen Brown, Blaine Reininger or (to try and scrabble back to Owens post punk thread) bands such as The Names – who already are investing their music with a feeling associated with the city of Manchester (ie joy division). Like cotton – this musical export to Brussels (Crepuscule being factory records sister label at points) also set post punk in relation to the experience of ornament, Neo gothic facades and the sinuous lines of Nouveau. Dereliction with flourish.
Okay – I admit it …I’m desperate for spring to arrive!

11:41 am  
Anonymous simon said...

and for those who wish experience floral decline (the 'proto' of industrial modernism) decoratively absorbing the written word there is Van de Velde book exhibition(scroll down page to see link)

http://design.museum.gent.be/ENG/exhibition-programme-2008.php

Henri Van De Velde's material deployment of form (which must have contributed toward Adolf Loos becoming the 'male hysteric modernist' of Ornament and crime' - l.o.l)

12:01 pm  
Blogger Tom Common said...

Hi Owen, I'd agree with all the above: especially what your boy Simon says about being enveloped in the city. Probably one of the most important things about Sheffield is how people connect with it in an emotional way, how they feel about it: the very reason you've got so many responses. It's definitely somewhere that you can fall in love with, and the myth of Sheffield (the music, the strikes, the industry) is really strong. Sometimes when you stand in the city centre it all feels like a lie, because the city centre is so bloody cheap now and so small minded (SHOPS AND OFFICES FOR THE LOVE OF GOD WE NEED MORE OFFICES). But once you get out of the city centre, it's still there.

I'd agree with the bit about the factories (go down John Street and Milton Street for some amazing examples) plus check out the brutalism too: the sub-station at the bottom of Charter Row is like being hit in the face by the future. It's best photographed from behind.

But given what I've said about the feeling, you should have a look at the terraces too. They're just two up two down, but they're everywhere, and so similar that whenever you're in someone's house in Sheffield, you already know your way around. If you have time to get up to Walkley (Cundy Street, or, even better, Industry Street), or Meersbrook, it would be really worth it.

Finally: the views. Sheffield is basically in the middle of a forest, and no-one outside really seems to know this. Go up any of the hills and turn round, and there you are. Beautiful. Meersbrook Park is probably the easiest to find. Good place to start, again if you have the time.


Right. That's probably more information than you can take in.
Wish I was still there, I'd love to show you around. I feel so proud of Sheffield.

7:45 am  
Blogger Eben Marks said...

Good to see you 'Go Sheffo' guys still around. It's reading your zine that got me interested in architecture.

Owen, if you haven't already been - I second Meersbrook park, just down the road from me and gives great views of the city. If you, walk there from the train station via Shoreham street, past the Bramall Lane football ground then along Queens Road. Head through the retail park and go along the path behind Dunelm Mill which takes you under the railway and over the river Sheaf. That transect will give you a good sense of the new build apartments nestling in the last vestiges of city centre manufacturing and then on to slum-clearance parkland and redbrick terraces. I'm hoping you'll have a guide who knows the city but if you don't I'd be happy to email a screengrab of google maps with paths scrawled on it in paint.

Another must-see is this beauty http://www.flickr.com/photos/clydehouse/89896419/ It looks like 'Threads'.

9:50 pm  
Anonymous Paul said...

For a cityscape view unmatched in Britain (?) get yourself up East Bank / Park Grange Road. The latter easier as you can go on the 'Supertram', stop at Arbourthorne (pre war / post war council estate, odd boarded-up modernist concrete pub on top of the hill) walk back down the hill. Try it at night (careful!) and it's a bit 'The whole city is your jewellery-box; a million twinkling yellow street lights.'

The university has got the aforementioned jazzy new stuff but further up the hill there is the 60s bit and the Arts Tower with the exciting paternoster lift.

Then you can go down the hill towards Neepsend / Kelham Island (which is more 'atmospheric' at night too).


You could try the Supertram to Meadowhell which takes you through where the industry used to be: there's the delight of Meadowhell itself and the Tinsley Viaduct with the M1 on top. You can walk the 'Five Weirs Walk' along the river back into town (though a section of it has been closed since the floods) and enjoy the vacuum, and you might see a kingfisher.

Try the Abbeydale Moonshine possibly in The Bath (off West St).

@Tom - fancy seeing you here...

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